Ingredients
Panthenol (pro-vitamin B5)
Panthenol — the alcohol form of vitamin B5 — is a small, water-soluble molecule used as a humectant and skin- and hair-conditioning agent in a wide range of dermocosmetics, with a long human-use record and a generally favourable tolerance profile.
At a glance
- INCI name
- Panthenol; D-Panthenol; Dexpanthenol; Pantothenic Acid (the acid form)
- Chemical name
- (R)-2,4-dihydroxy-N-(3-hydroxypropyl)-3,3-dimethylbutanamide — the alcohol analogue of pantothenic acid
- CAS number
- 81-13-0 (D-panthenol)
- Regulatory class
- Cosmetic ingredient (Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009); also active substance in certain non-prescription medicines (e.g., dexpanthenol ointments) in some EU jurisdictions
- Cosmetic function
- Humectant; anti-static; hair conditioning; skin conditioning
What it is
Panthenol is the alcohol analogue of pantothenic acid (vitamin B5). It is converted to pantothenic acid in the body and forms part of the biosynthetic precursor of coenzyme A. In the cosmetic literature, it is therefore sometimes referred to as a "pro-vitamin". As a finished-product ingredient, panthenol is a viscous, hygroscopic, water-soluble liquid that incorporates easily into aqueous and emulsion vehicles.
How it is used in parapharmacy products
Panthenol is used across a broad range of products including face and body moisturisers, after-sun preparations, hair conditioners and treatments, scalp products, lip products and infant-care creams. Typical concentrations in finished products are in the low single-digit per cent range. The CosIng entry lists humectant, hair conditioning and skin conditioning as the declared cosmetic functions.
Dexpanthenol — the same molecule, in the medicinal-product context — is the active substance in certain non-prescription ointments and sprays for the management of minor superficial skin irritation, sunburn and dry skin. In that medicinal context, it is reserved to the dispensing channels permitted by national law (pharmacy in France, Spain and Belgium; pharmacy plus parafarmacia / local de venda in Italy and Portugal).
Regulatory status
Panthenol is not subject to specific concentration restrictions in the Annexes of Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009. As with any cosmetic ingredient, its use is subject to the general safety requirement of Article 3 and to inclusion in the safety assessment for the finished product.
As a nutrient, pantothenic acid is also addressed in food law: it is one of the substances authorised in Annex I/II of Directive 2002/46/EC for use in food supplements (typically as calcium D-pantothenate). Authorised health claims for pantothenic acid in the EU Register of nutrition and health claims are subject to the conditions of use stated in the Register entry.
Evidence summary
Topical panthenol's role as a humectant in cosmetic formulations is well-established. Studies have documented increases in stratum-corneum hydration and effects on perceived skin softness following application of panthenol-containing vehicles. For specific dermocosmetic claims (for example, "supports the appearance of skin barrier"), claims must comply with Regulation 655/2013 and the entries on cosmetic claims in the EU framework.
Where panthenol is used in registered medicinal products, the evidence supporting the medicinal indication is held in the marketing-authorisation dossier and is outside the scope of cosmetic law.
Safety and known considerations
Topical panthenol has a long human-use history and a generally favourable safety profile. Allergic contact dermatitis has been reported but is uncommon relative to widespread use. Pantothenic acid as an oral supplement is similarly well tolerated within recommended intakes; food-supplement law sets the requirements for labelling, claims and notification at national level.
References & further reading
- European Commission, CosIng entry for Panthenol: ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing.
- Directive 2002/46/EC, Annexes I and II: eur-lex.europa.eu.
- EU Register of nutrition and health claims (pantothenic acid): ec.europa.eu/food/food-feed-portal.
Last reviewed: May 2026.