Ingredients

Centella asiatica

Centella asiatica is a herbaceous plant whose extracts have a long history of use in traditional medicines of South and East Asia. In modern European dermocosmetics, it is used principally as a botanical extract containing characterised triterpene compounds.

At a glance

INCI names

Centella Asiatica Extract; Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract; Hydrocotyl Extract; Asiaticoside; Asiatic Acid; Madecassoside; Madecassic Acid

Botanical

Centella asiatica (L.) Urban (family Apiaceae). Common names include gotu kola, Indian pennywort, brahmi (the last name is shared with other plants and is therefore ambiguous)

Characterised compounds

Pentacyclic triterpenes: asiaticoside and madecassoside (the glycosylated forms), and their corresponding aglycones asiatic acid and madecassic acid

Regulatory class

Cosmetic ingredient (Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009); not authorised as a food supplement in all Member States and subject to national plant lists where applicable

Cosmetic function

Skin conditioning; soothing (as a category descriptor in cosmetic literature, not a regulated claim)

What it is

Centella asiatica is a low-growing herb native to wetland habitats in Asia. The leaves and stems are the parts most commonly used. Phytochemical work has characterised the principal active components as a group of pentacyclic triterpenes — asiaticoside, madecassoside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid — collectively referred to in cosmetic literature as "centellosides" or "TECA" (titrated extract of Centella asiatica). The proportion of each compound in a commercial extract depends on the cultivation conditions, the part of the plant used and the extraction process.

How it is used in parapharmacy products

Centella asiatica extracts appear in leave-on facial and body products positioned for sensitive or post-procedural skin, in scalp products, and in some after-sun preparations. The concentration of the extract in finished products varies, and the proportion of the active triterpenes within the extract varies further; concentration on a label refers to the extract as supplied to the formulator, not to the active triterpene content. CosIng entries are the operational reference for declared cosmetic functions.

Regulatory status

Centella asiatica extracts are not subject to specific concentration restrictions in the Annexes of Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009. As with any cosmetic ingredient, use is subject to the general safety requirement and to inclusion in the safety assessment for the finished product.

For food-supplement use, the position is country-specific. France's BELFRIT (Belgium-France-Italy) list and similar national plant catalogues include Centella asiatica with specific conditions; consult the relevant national authority for the precise current status. As a medicinal product, certain titrated extracts have been authorised in some EU jurisdictions for specific indications; these uses are outside cosmetic law and outside the scope of this site.

Evidence summary

The biological activity of centellosides has been documented in laboratory studies, including in-vitro work on fibroblasts. Clinical evidence on finished cosmetic formulations containing centella asiatica extracts is best characterised as supported by a body of dermocosmetic studies of variable quality, with the magnitude of any specific effect depending on the standardisation of the extract, the vehicle and the population. As with all cosmetic actives, claims must comply with Commission Regulation (EU) No 655/2013 and must not present the product as treating disease.

Safety and known considerations

Topical centella asiatica extracts are generally well tolerated in cosmetic-grade preparations. Allergic contact dermatitis has been reported in case reports and is more frequent with extracts of unstandardised composition than with characterised centelloside-titrated extracts. Pregnancy considerations differ between topical cosmetic use and oral medicinal/supplement use; consult a pharmacist or physician for any specific question concerning use during pregnancy.

Last reviewed: May 2026.